Find the Best Organic and Natural Skin Care Treatments

What does supporting organic and natural products mean to you?  What about organic or natural skin care products?

In the last 10 years startling news and information on how our food supplies and products are created have surfaced. We now know that unlike the pastoral advertising claims we are shown, our food sources comes from no less than horrific, sub-human conditions of pestilence and disease. And don’t think if you are vegetarian, you avoid the chemical runoff from these cattle warehouses, and massive vegetable plantations, contaminating the water sources we all use as well.

We live in an organic world, and we are organic beings. In terms of skin care, it should be a “no-brainer.”  Living in harmony with nature is perhaps the best overall health and skin care advice you can follow.

There are perhaps hundreds of skin care products in the market today that seem to lure you into buying them by saying they are natural. Further inquisitiveness would prove they are not what they prove to be by reading the back labels. Always remember that whatever substances we put on the skin of our body, they eventually end up inside our bodies. Scary, isn’t it? Most artificial substances used in skin care products are actually carcinogens that gradually build up in your system and become full-grown problems in the coming years.

Unfortunately, “natural” or organic skin care is not FDA regulated so that products with even one percent of organic ingredient can be called organic or natural.It is up to you as an informed , concerned consumer to learn what ingredients are, what they are derived from, where they come from and how they might affect you and your family.

The following are chemical offenders you need to watch out for.

Formaldehyde and imidazolidinyl urea are preservatives. The former is found mostly in nail polish, nail hardeners and cosmetics. Both have been associated with causing unfavorable skin reactions. Synthetic fragrances, being artificial, should be avoided. Opt for perfumes that contain natural fragrance or those coming from essential oils for your organic skin care.

Additionally, methyl paraben is another preservative with an extensive usage and suspected to cause skin irritations. It’s also possibly a xenoestrogen (a carcinogen that complicates human reproductive processes and is correlated with breast cysts). Look out for butyl, ethyl, and propyl paraben as well. Isopropyl alcohol might be anti-bacterial but the fact that it’s obtained from petroleum should make you think many times before opting to it. It definitely should not be used in your your organic skin care regimen.

Methylisothiazolinone is another known preservative. Its effects are not expressly given but its being artificial should be a turn off. Paraffin (ever heard of paraffin tests?) is extracted from petroleum or coal and is a substance present in cold creams, hair removers, eyebrow pencils, etc. It’s similar to putting the petroleum ore itself on yourself. Propylene glycol is also derived from petroleum and sometimes from vegetable glycerin and is an agent for moisturizing. Lastly, sodium lauryl sulphate (another one from the sulfate family) is a detergent cleansing agent that leaves a drying effect resulting to irritations.

The best way to go organic in skin care is make your own products! Mother nature provides milder substances for organic skin care great for your skin. For your moisturizer, honey is quite a good alternative for organic skin care. Use honey with oatmeal and a little yogurt and you have a facial scrub. Tea tree oil is a known organic antiseptic which can be used in the treatment of minor blemishes.

On the brighter side, organic skin care is much simpler and available even in your kitchens. It saves your precious time and is also much more beneficial to your body.

excerpts from Milos Pesic article: Be Natural – Organic Skin Care

Article Source:http://ezinearticles.com

Skin Cleansers - An Overview On Soap

Soaps, as we know them, were first used about 600 BC by the Phoenicians who combined goat fat, water, and potassium carbonate ash to form a solid soap. More recently, in 1878, Harley Procter developed a soap in collaboration with his cousin, James Gamble. They produced a soap by whipping air into a soap solution, this resulted in Ivory Soap, which is still used today.

Cleansing of the skin helps the skin to maintain a healthy, attractive looking, surface. It removes dust, perspiration, and some of the breakdown products of sebum. Makeup can also be removed. Foreign substances such as dirt will mix with the oil of the skin and become embedded. Water is inadequate to remove this. Soaps will be used to decrease the oil on the surface of the skin removing the dirt at the same time.

Soaps are essentially made of salts of fatty acids. The most commonly used fats come from animal and vegetable sources and include stearic acid, palmitic, oleic, as well as lauric. Soap particles will coat the fat droplets in which dirt is embedded and then will allow these to be removed by water.

Types Of Cleansers:

1. Bar soaps
2. Lipid free cleansers
3. Cleansing creams
4. Astringents and toners
5. Abrasive scrubs
6. Facial masks

Soaps can be irritating to the skin, the removal of the protective fat layer can lead to drying. A high pH of skin can also be irritating. Soaps can also combine with the calcium and magnesium found on the surface of the skin to form fatty acid salts which of themselves become irritating. The skin’s acidity may be affected. The acidity of the skin is important to inhibit bacterial and fungal infections.

1) Bar soaps:

Bar soaps are essentially salts of fatty acids, they are the most commonly used cleansers. They can be irritating, particularly to sensitive skin. A number of components can be added to soaps including the following:

* Moisturizers
* Fragrances & perfumes
* Preservatives
* Colouring agents
* Anti-bacterial compounds
Moisturizers:
Moisturizers will counteract the drying effect of soaps. The loss of the protective oil layer increases the chances of irritation. This can be counteracted by the use of moisturizing products such as glycerin, vegetable fats, or lanolin. The amount of moisturizer that is incorporated into soap is very small. Individuals who have a tendency to have dry skin should apply specific moisturizers after washing with soap rather than relying on the moisturizing component of soaps. Transparent soaps will have a high glycerin content and this tends to absorb water out of the skin, potentially causing more irritation.

Fragrances:
Fragrances are commonly used to conceal the odours of the raw ingredients of soaps. Some individuals will be sensitive and become allergic to these products. Anti-bacterial soaps will contain triclosan or triclocarban. A small residue will remain on the skin, which may inhibit bacteria. These can be useful in inhibiting unpleasant odours such as those found in areas where there are a significant number of apocrine sweat glands. These are found in the armpits and groin.

Mild soaps:
Mild soaps are designed to minimize irritations. They will not have colouring agents or perfumes. These do not tend to cause stinging of the skin or the eyes. Irritation or allergic reactions, while less likely to occur, may still be a problem for small children or for those who have very sensitive skin.

2) Lipid-free cleansers:

These are liquid cleansers that do not contain any fat. They will be applied to the skin and then wiped away or rinsed off with water. Many of these will contain glycerin, cetyl alcohol, sodium or sulphate, and sometimes propylene glycol. They will leave a very fine moisturizing film on the skin. These are particularly effective in removing cosmetics and are useful for individuals who have a tendency towards eczema. These may also be more helpful in older, drier skin.

3) Cleansing creams:

These creams can be used to both wash the skin and to moisturize it, they contain a mixture of mineral oil, petroleum, water, and some waxes. These are known also as cold creams, they are applied to the skin and washed off. They are useful for removing makeup and are usually made of heavy oils. These creams are helpful in removing sebum from the skin. They are gentler than other cleansers, and are recommended for dry skin, but are not that useful for those with oily skin or individuals with acne. Cleansing creams are best not used as moisturizers, as they are likely to cause irritation if left on for some time.

4) Astringents and toners:

These are perfumed or fragranced alcohol-based solutions designed to remove oil from the skin and will produce a tight feeling to the skin. Many multi-stat cleansing regimens will incorporate astringents that are used after a regular bar soap is used, they certainly have some benefit in removing alkaline soaps that tend to stick to the skin. Astringents are available for oily, normal, and dry skin. The high concentration of alcohol certainly removes sebum especially in those with oily skin for example, individuals with acne. They are the products used to control T zone oiliness.

5) Abrasive scrubbers:

These substances cause the rubbing off or exfoliation of the surface of the skin, they are available either as an abrasive sponge, or an abrasive scrub which has small granules within a cream base. These are used to remove skin scales, they work through mechanical means rather than through chemical action. They should be used infrequently, and cannot be tolerated on a daily basis, if used excessively they can cause damage of the stratum corneum, which is the surface of the epidermis producing redness and scaling.

6) Facial masks:

Facial masks are applied to the skin in a thick layer and are left on for 15-30 minutes, they are otherwise known as facials. It is said that these will produce skin tightening as well as deep cleaning of the hair follicles and pores. They may be used as a preventative treatment for acne. These products cleanse and moisturize the skin as well, they have a cleansing action through superficial peeling of the skin. They will leave the skin feeling moisturized, there is a general feeling of well being for some time after this is done, although it is not possible to fundamentally change the skin longterm with these products.

Some masks are applied and rinsed off with water, these are absorbent masks that are made of insoluble powders, clay, and mud, or gel masks that contain substances such as tragacanth. A mask that is peeled off will be vinyl or rubber based, and will harden, and form into a transparent sheet that will have to be removed. Facial masks that are used for acne will absorb oil from the skin, and some of them can be integrated with sulpha and benzoyl peroxide.

Excessive cleansing with a mask can certainly cause irritation and occasionally there may be a secondary infection. Once these masks are removed, moisturizer should be applied to the skin to minimize the superficial peeling that follows.

Treating Acne with Natural Zinc Moisturizers

There has been a lot of press recently about Zinc and Zinc Oxide in skincare and cosmetic products. Zinc can be found in many natural sunscreens ans well as moisturizing lotions and creams.  Zinc - or Micronized zinc oxide -  is produced by high temperature processing of minerals that contain zinc. Some brands contain micronized zinc oxide, combined with an inert ingredient derived from silica. The result is a naturally protective product to protect you from the sun’s damaging UV and UVB rays.

Zinc is a mineral and it is also believed that it has curative properties on a skin where there are acne growths and can reduce the symptoms of acne. Many alternative studies have indicated that this is not the case. So is there a connection between the two?

According to research carried out in recent years, zinc has the same properties of antibiotics such as tetracycline and it can fight the acne bacteria efficiently without the negative effects of antibiotics. Reportedly, zinc also enhances the immunity of the body when ingested as a supplement. So what is zinc and what is the zinc acne connection all about? How does the zinc acne treatment affect the sufferers and what is the best way to use this treatment?

You will find traces of the zinc mineral in various food items such as mushrooms, soybeans, legumes, fish, sunflower seeds, egg yolks, soy lecithin and also in whole grains. Zinc is also present in many herbs such as dandelion, eyebright, cayenne, chamomile, mullein, nettle, milk thistle, alfalfa and in the burdock root. Zinc forms a part of insulin and can be found in the tissues.

There are many useful properties of zinc like providing the person with energy, prohibiting blindness, aiding the process of digestion by being a part of enzymes, supporting the reaction of more than 30 enzymes, strengthening the immunity, regulation of Vitamin E in the blood, helping the body absorb Vitamin A and B, speeding up the process of healing, regulating insulin, and it also fights bacteria. Zinc is also present in estrogen, testosterone and growth hormones.

So how does zinc help a person suffering from acne?  Zinc moisturizers and sunscreens may be a good first step to taking care of your skin from the outside.

The causes of acne are all internal and they are imbalance in the level of hormones and build up toxic materials within the body. The hormones are responsible for producing oils, and the zinc can regulate the oil glands, and so if you can take them correctly (that is in the right quantity, quality and the correct essential fatty acids) you will be able to have some control over the level of hormones and this will ease the symptoms of your acne greatly.

Zinc also helps absorb Vitamin A, and fights the bacteria that causes acne by strengthening the immune system, helps the body heal wounds and contains anti oxidant properties. All these are useful in tackling the secondary causes of acne and will help you greatly reduce the symptoms of acne.

Another ability of zinc for acne is that it can regulate the production of hormones, which is a main reason one acquires acne. However for this to happen, it needs to be taken in the correct quantity and in combination with essential fatty acids. This mineral needs to be properly absorbed within the body and work together with other nutrients for the hormones to be balanced.

While zinc as an acne treatment may be effective, it is very important however to take care and not mix it with some chemical substances, supplements and food items because they will make the zinc less effective.  You should always consult your doctor or research a supplement before taking any internal treatments.

There are some food items, ( inhibitors) like supplements and physical conditions that can prevent zinc from being properly absorbed in the body. This may significantly reduce the impact of zinc on the acne.

One of these inhibitors is Phytic acid.  Usually found in high levels in grains. The acid can reduce the absorption by about 15%.  And thus, those who are suffering from acne need to reduce their grain consumption to one to two servings a day. Grains may lead to mucus and acidity and taking them with zinc for acne can be a challenge.

Another zinc inhibitor is soy protein. If you are using zinc for an acne treatment, you need to eat less soy as it can bind to minerals and lead to less zinc absorption. Then there are other minerals like copper and inorganic iron. They also come in the way of zinc for acne bio-availability. However this issue can be solved easily, unless of course you are suffering from copper toxicity. Try not to take copper more than 2-3 mg a day and also do not take inorganic iron supplements.

Too much of physical exertion may lead to an increased demand by the body for zinc and thus, when you are exercising, you need to also take more zinc for acne treatments.

Following these tips and zinc guidines should have you well on your way to beautiful skin in no time!

Rosemary Uses for Health and Skincare

By Van Le | Rosemary is a widely-used herb in many natural products, specifically natural skin care products.   Its use has been traced back to ancient and medieval times, when it was used as an antiseptic to care for wounds thanks to its restorative properties.  Rosemary is edible and is often used as a spice for cooking.

When added to food, rosemary provides key nutrition such as calcium, iron, and Vitamin B.  What is good for the body is also good for the skin, therefore, rosemary and its oil extracts have been used medicinally for hundreds of years.  In modern times, rosemary has been a wildly popular ingredient in many herbal skincare products and cosmetics.

Rosemary is an evergreen herb that is native to the Mediterranean region, and is known as the “dew of the sea” because it first grew predominantly along the Italian coast.  Today, rosemary can be grown in a typical garden with relative ease.  The leaves can be crushed and used as an herb for cooking, and the health and cosmetic benefits of this herb are plentiful.  Rosemary is popular in the kitchen as spice for fish, meat and poultry.

Outside the kitchen, rosemary oil improves digestion, boosts mental activities, and strengthens follicles for increased hair growth and stronger hair.  It is high in anti-oxidants, making it a key ingredient in the fight against tumors and cancer.  Rosemary stimulates brain activities, fights off free radicals, and is a key component in the fight against cancer.

The health benefits of rosemary are plentiful, but the cosmetic benefits are even more rewarding.

Also known as Rosmarinus Officinalis, rosemary is rich in minerals, has a pleasantly compelling smell, and contains powerful anti-inflammatories.  According to an article by Dr. Winston Craig, “The terpenoids in rosemary, such as rosmarinic acid, rosmanol, carnosol and ursolic acid provide effective anti-inflammatory benefits, while ursolic acid conveys anti-tumor properties.” When used on the skin it stimulates blood flow and helps improve skin functions, resulting in a healthy complexion.

A common indication of skin damage and aging skin is broken capillaries, a condition where capillary walls rip and blood seeps to the surface of the skin.  As a result, fine, red lines appear under the surface of the skin, creating an unpleasant look.  Rosemary has been known to reduce the appearance of broken capillaries.  It stimulates circulation, reduces the appearances of the red lines, which makes it an effective element in anti-aging products.  Rosemary is also effective in reducing under-eye puffiness since it is able to increase circulation and help drain toxins that accumulate in the area directly under the eyes.

Thanks to its antimicrobial and astringent properties, Rosemary is also used to treat symptom of acne.   When used as an astringent, rosemary helps cleanse the skin by clearing clogged pores, removing dead skin cells, and stimulating cell renewal.  It also prevents excess oil buildups that can lead to inflamed pores.

Rosemary can also be made into essential oils, teas, and powders.  Its soothing and rejuvenating properties are commonly used in aromatherapy for

overall wellness.  As with everything, moderation is key.  Rosemary should not be used by those suffering from hypertension or epilepsy, and women who are breastfeeding should consult a doctor before consuming rosemary herbs.
Rosemary is a key ingredient in Vivoderm’s anti-acne mask, anti-aging mask, intense moisturizer, facial cleanser, facial toner, body butter and foot cream.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare, you can also link to http://http://antiagingmasks.com

Natural Healing with Aloe Vera

By: Van Le
The healing power of Aloe vera has been known for decades, dating back to the Egyptian era when it is believed that Cleopatra used it as a skincare remedy, and found in Greek history when it is believed that Alexander the Great used it to care for his army after battles.  Today, Aloe vera is widely used in many cosmetic products, anti-inflammatory creams, and some grocery store shelves even boast Aloe vera juice.

Aloe vera is a member of the succulent (water-retaining) plant family, and is also known as “lily of the desert” since researchers believe it originated in Africa.  There are over 250 known species of Aloe vera, and are relatively easy to care for, therefore increasing its popularity.  The spokes of Aloe vera plants are filled with a gel-like substance that is filled with a combination of enzymes, vitamins and minerals.  Dermatologists and cosmetic companies often extract the gel for use in their products.   Aloe vera is also considered an alternative treatment for high blood pressure and intestinal problems.

Aloe vera is a popular choice for the treatment of sunburn, since it contains a variety of enzymes and amino acids that are anti-inflammatory and speed up the skin’s healing process.  Many after-sun moisturizing creams contain Aloe, and for those who have access to actual Aloe plants, the gel can be applied directly on the affected area.

Aloe vera is a common ingredient in many cosmetic products, particularly anti-aging and anti-acne products due to its ability to generate healthier skin.  The combination of enzymes, vitamins and minerals in Aloe vera products increases oxygen flow, which toughens the skin tissues and provides protection from pollutants and dirt.  It also moisturizes the skin and increases its elasticity, which reduces wrinkles and signs of aging.  Used in conjunction with exfoliating products, Aloe vera can help control acne by helping shed dead skin cells and reduce redness.
Once Alternative, Now Mainstream

Not so long ago, herbal products or foods deemed “natural” were considered less than desirable by the mainstream public.  The Industrial Revolution not only changed the face of production and how we worked, it changed what we ate and used for our health.  Mass-produced, new chemical compounds in fancy packaging quickly replaced the ‘old-fashioned’ herbal remedies used by our grandmothers.

While Aloe vera never completely fell out of favor, by the 1970’s and 80’s use of medical plants and herbs to treat ailments and skin conditions was considered unconventional and provided mostly by naturalists and alternative therapists. In the new millennium, science and technology have not proven to be the miracle we were expecting.  Today, modern science is re-discovering what our already ancestors knew.  Aloe vera and similar natural treatments provide vital healing, nourishing and regenerative qualities that no chemical lab can re-create.

Van Le is a staff writer for the CSU Daily Titan and writing intern for Vivoderm Laboratories in Los Angeles, California. She is currently pursuing a Journalism degree at California State University, Fullerton.

For the latest findings on natural skincare, you can also link to http://bestfacemask.com

Moisturizers and hydrated skin tips

If you aren’t sure what they do, moisturizers are used to replace natural skin oils to cover tiny fissures (or openings) in the skin, and to provide a soothing protective film. Thus, evaporation of the skin’s moisture is slowed, which helps to improve the appearance and feel of dry and aging skin. An effective moisturizer increases water content, reduces water loss, and restores the skin’s ability to retain water.

Who doesn’t want smooth, hydrated, healthy skin? From basic formulas that claim to keep skin moist, to concoctions that promise an end to aging skin and wrinkles, the choice of a skin moisturizer can be overwhelming. You can look at information on moisturizers for different skin types.v

(Scientists say a moisturizer will smooth skin to temporarily make wrinkles less apparent, but unfortunately, moisturizing your skin will not have any long-term effect on wrinkles.)

Look for products that:

* help to make the skin smooth and supple
* duplicate and enhance the skin’s natural moisture retention mechanisms
* are good to sensitive skin - hypoallergenic, non-sensitizing, fragrance free, non-comedogenic (Read about Sensitive Skin Other Skin Conditions.)
* absorb rapidly and last long

Remember, too, just because a product has a certain ingredient, that doesn’t necessarily mean it has enough of it to make a difference. Dermatologists look for a number of substances to complete a moisturizer’s make-up:

* Emollients such as plant and mineral oils, shea and cocoa butter, petrolatum, cholesterol, silicones or animal oils (including emu, mink and lanolin). These lubricating ingredients soften and smooth skin while helping it to retain moisture.
* Water-binding agents that keep water in the skin, called Humectants, are important for skin damaged by sun and dehydration, but they won’t help your skin retain water.
* Occlusives, which are substances that physically block water loss in the stratum corneum, or layers of the skin, include: Petrolatum (in a minimum concentration of five per cent is the most effective occlusive), followed by lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones such as dimethicone, which act as a protective part of skin barrier creams.
* Soothing agents and anti-irritants, such as bisabolol, allantoin, burdock root, aloe, licorice root, glycyrrhetinic acid, green tea and chamomile extract, are added to many moisturizers to help skin handle ingredients that may cause irritation.
* Pure mixtures of amino acids are useless as moisturizers, while pure solutions of glycerin are ineffective, and propylene glycol by itself is irritating. However, alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, appear to help reduce roughness and scaling.
* Vitamins and antioxidants, including vitamins A, C and E, get mixed reviews. Some experts say these ingredients have the ability to heal and hydrate, while others insist there’s little evidence of their effectiveness when applied topically, especially in the quantity found in most moisturizers.

Side effects

Moisturizers aren’t without their side effects. If you have these symptoms, see your doctor:

* sweat retention (miliara rubra, i.e.: petrolatum and lanolin)
* irritation (urea; lactic acid; propylene glycol; solvents)
* allergic contact dermatitis (fragrances, preservatives, i.e. parabens, formaldehyde, Quaternium 15 and Imidazolidinyl urea; lanolin; additives, i.e.: vitamin E and aloe vera
* photo contact dermatitis (fragrances, UV filters)

The skinny on skin - five points

* Study the active ingredients listed on labels in order of the amount contained. If soothing aloe vera or vitamin C is 15th on the list, you’re not getting much of it
* Be wary of claims that products will increase your own natural collagen or elastin, whose job is to keep skin plumped up and youthful-looking. The molecules in these products are too big to actually penetrate the skin.
* Wash your face no more than twice a day with a gentle cleanser formulated for dry skin. Washing more often can dry your skin.
* Add a few teaspoons of olive oil or lavender-scented oil to your bath.
* Steer clear of added fragrance, preservatives and botanicals, which may irritate already dry skin

Get your money’s worth

Which is better? High-end brands or low-cost brands? Drugstore shelves seem to have an overwhelming choice of products, with each company vying for your dollars. Experts say that often low-cost brands are just as effective. You can stretch your money’s worth of product by applying your moisturizer on damp skin - it will absorb better.

Choosing the Right Sunscreen

The skin has evolved to protect us from the harmful effects of ultraviolet light. Sunscreens were first developed to prevent sunburns by blocking UVB; they allowed us to prolong our time in the sun, but that resulted in increased exposure to UVA. Modern sunscreens attempt to block the whole spectrum of UV light, so are called broad spectrum. Not all so-called broad spectrum sunscreens protect skin from the whole range of UVA.

Negative Effects on the Skin:

Most of us know that sun exposure has immediate positive and negative effects on the skin. The positive effects include a sense of warmth and pleasure and Vitamin D production. The medium and longer term effects are negative and must also be recognised.

Short Term Effects:

• Sunburn, or tan
• Photosensitive rashes
• Drug and chemical photo toxicity and allergy reactions
• Light aggravated conditions

Negative Medium Term Effects:

• Photodamage (Click here to learn more.)
• Photoaging

Negative Longer Term Effects:

• Skin cancer (Click here to learn more.)
• Photoaging

A Comparison on UVA and UVB

UVA and UVB light have different characteristics.

UVA* (320-400nm)

• Levels are constant throughout the year
• Penetrates into the lower dermis
• Penetrates glass
• 95% of UVL is UVA
• May be important in causing melanoma
• Tans the skin
• Causes most of the aging effects seen in the skin
• Immunosuppressive
• Phototoxic reactions to drugs and chemicals
• Responsible for many photodermatoses

*It should be noted that sun-tanning beds use mainly UVA light. There is no such thing as a “safe” suntan. Recently the US FDA began investigating whether suntan beds should be illegal for anyone under the age of 18 years.

UVB (290-320nm)

• Amounts vary and increase in the summer, at noon, and on the equator
• Most only penetrates the epidermis
• Does not go through glass
• SPF of sunscreens only measures UVB blockage
• More carcinogenic than UVA
• Sunburns the skin
• Needed for Vitamin D production

Sunscreen Use

Key Points:

• Broad spectrum only should be used.
• SPF is only related to UVB protection and does not provide a reference to the UVA protection in the product.
• All sunscreens will have UVB protection, which is reflected in the SPF.
• If a skin sunburns in 10 minutes, a properly applied sunscreen SPF 15 means they will burn in 150minutes
• Physical screens reflect light whereas chemical screens absorb UV converting the energy into heat
• SPF15 blocks 87.5% of UVB and SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB.

---

About the author:

Richard Thomas, MD, FRCPC is Assistant Professor of Clinical Dermatology, Department of Dermatology, University of British Columbia, Vancouver, Canada.

Choosing the Right Sunscreen

The skin has evolved to protect us from the harmful effects of ultraviolet light. Sunscreens were first developed to prevent sunburns by blocking UVB; they allowed us to prolong our time in the sun, but that resulted in increased exposure to UVA. Modern sunscreens attempt to block the whole spectrum of UV light, so are called broad spectrum. Not all so-called broad spectrum sunscreens protect skin from the whole range of UVA.

Negative Effects on the Skin:

Most of us know that sun exposure has immediate positive and negative effects on the skin. The positive effects include a sense of warmth and pleasure and Vitamin D production. The medium and longer term effects are negative and must also be recognised.

Short Term Effects:

• Sunburn, or tan
• Photosensitive rashes
• Drug and chemical photo toxicity and allergy reactions
• Light aggravated conditions

Negative Medium Term Effects:

• Photodamage (Click here to learn more.)
• Photoaging

Negative Longer Term Effects:

• Skin cancer (Click here to learn more.)
• Photoaging

A Comparison on UVA and UVB

UVA and UVB light have different characteristics.

UVA* (320-400nm)

• Levels are constant throughout the year
• Penetrates into the lower dermis
• Penetrates glass
• 95% of UVL is UVA
• May be important in causing melanoma
• Tans the skin
• Causes most of the aging effects seen in the skin
• Immunosuppressive
• Phototoxic reactions to drugs and chemicals
• Responsible for many photodermatoses

*It should be noted that sun-tanning beds use mainly UVA light. There is no such thing as a “safe” suntan. Recently the US FDA began investigating whether suntan beds should be illegal for anyone under the age of 18 years.

UVB (290-320nm)

• Amounts vary and increase in the summer, at noon, and on the equator
• Most only penetrates the epidermis
• Does not go through glass
• SPF of sunscreens only measures UVB blockage
• More carcinogenic than UVA
• Sunburns the skin
• Needed for Vitamin D production

Sunscreen Use

Key Points:

• Broad spectrum only should be used.
• SPF is only related to UVB protection and does not provide a reference to the UVA protection in the product.
• All sunscreens will have UVB protection, which is reflected in the SPF.
• If a skin sunburns in 10 minutes, a properly applied sunscreen SPF 15 means they will burn in 150minutes
• Physical screens reflect light whereas chemical screens absorb UV converting the energy into heat
• SPF15 blocks 87.5% of UVB and SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB.

---

About the author:

Richard Thomas, MD, FRCPC is Assistant Professor of Clinical Dermatology, Department of Dermatology, University of British Columbia, Vancouver, Canada.

How Cleansers Work

Cleansers interact with the skin’s moisture barrier as well as the skin’s pH to emulsify dirt and oil for easy removal. As dirt or debris is usually embedded in the barrier’s outer layer of oil, removing this dirt can disrupt this naturally protective surface.

The health of the skin’s moisture barrier is important as this barrier preserves water and natural oils to moisturize and maintain the smoothness and flexibility of the skin. It also serves as your skin’s protection against injury from chemicals or bacteria. Harsher cleansers can disrupt this barrier, as well as irritate the skin and affect the skin surface pH, which scientists believe plays a role in regulating how this barrier functions and protects us from bacteria. Studies show that the barrier’s regeneration and repair happens more slowly at a neutral pH than at the skin’s natural acidic pH. Changing the skin surface’s pH balance can increase the skin’s sensitivity to potential irritants.

Cleansing with water, soap or a liquid cleanser will affect the skin’s moisture barrier, although soap will have the most impact and will make the skin’s pH more alkaline. Liquid facial cleansers clean more gently, with less disruption of the barrier and have a smaller effect on the skin pH. Some of the new synthetic detergents will remove dirt and disrupt the outer layer of oil, but then work to ensure the skin barrier is left intact by restoring the oil.

What to know about skin care products

For you as a consumer in the billion-dollar skin care industry, lack of information about products is costly, and you have to bridge the gap between. Without accurate information, you are throwing your money away, because you are completely at the mercy of advertisers and marketers. Knowing more specific information about your skin needs, such as your true skin type, you can take control of your skin.

In 2001, the average American owned about five hundred dollars’ worth of cosmetic products, and this amount has surely risen dramatically as more and more expensive product lines have been developed since that time. Do you really need to spend that much to get quality skin care? No. What truly matters is not your skin cream’s price, but whether it’s right for your Skin Type. No matter how glamorous its packaging or delicious its feel, that four-hundred-dollar cream is not right for everyone. (In fact, some types don’t need to use any skin cream at all.)

Proper information – not hype - will save you the expense, trouble, and waste of buying the wrong products-while directing you to the right ones. Ingredients are the only thing that should drive your purchasing decisions and once you’ve learned what all the jargon and 14-syllable words mean, you too will be better able to read a cosmetic label and figure out if it’s appropriate for you.
Again, products should be chosen based on their ingredients first, manufacturing practices, and formulations.
Also try to research the clinical trial data of the products, when available, to choose wisely those that have proven effective. Leading dermatologists recommend following these criteria before buying any skin care:

Make sure the product…

1. Contains the right ingredients for your skin type
2. Contains sufficient amounts of active ingredients to be effective
3. Do not contain counterproductive ingredients
4. Are formulated effectively for your needs
5. Are packaged to maintain stability of the active ingredients
6. Are cosmetically elegant (smell good and feel good)
7. Are Approved from those who’ve used them
8. Are easily available for purchase

Next Page »